Marko Prezelj, Ales Cesen and Luka Lindic (Slovenia) made the first ascent of the 1,350m North face at ED, 90° ice. On the first day the steepness and difficulty of the ice forced them to climb until two o’clock the following morning. They summitted the next day, 30th September, at 5pm, traversed to the main summit and then
descended by the original route, first opened in 1989 by Poles.
By sharing the spirit of the Piolets D'Or and thanks to their celan, modern and respectfulMarko and co. won the 23th edition of the important prize:
"More than just the recognition of a performance, the Piolets d'Or celebrates passion, spirit and values.
The spirit of the Piolets d’Or draws its inspiration from the history of alpinism and the authenticity of true team spirit.
The style should take precedence over the conquest of an objective. Success is no longer about getting to the summit at all costs, employing all possible financial and technical means, (oxygen, fixed ropes, doping products, etc) or large-scale human resources (high-altitude porters or sherpas).
The Piolets d’Or event encourages imagination in searching for innovative routes using a maximum of economy of means, making use of experience and respecting man and nature.
The Piolets d’Or is attached to making climbing a shared and valued richness all over the world, capable of attracting the best of human ambitions whilst encompassing moral values and edifying behaviour.
The Piolets d'Or event is therefore a celebration of an ethical alpinism, rich in emotion."
In the great international committee also Hervè Barmasse.
Congratulations to Marko for the great achievement.