Oriane Bertone, 14 years and an outdoor ticklist that can cause envy to any great climber.
The young gun from the La Réunion'island leaves the world youth B championships with 2 golds leaving the spectators astonished.
Oriane also won several competitions within her YouthB first year, such as: European bouldering cups (Graz Austria, Soure Portugal) and European lead cups (Ostermundigen Switzerland, Saint Pierre en Fauciny France).
Hi Oriane, how do you feel with 2 fresh golds in your pocket? Did you expect it?
This is hard to describe. I worked on it for many years, and it has always been kind of a dream because younger I couldn’t participate to such international competitions. As a matter of fact, I didn’t have any idea of how could climb the other athletes of my category. I have to say that it was a good surprise to see that I could compete, or even be ahead.
How did you succeed in this endeavor? Did you follow a particular preparation? Where do you usually train? Are there gyms in your Island suitable for training for international level competitions?
I didn’t follow any special training. I just climb everywhere (outdoor, indoor, boudering, lead ...) I don’t do any weightlifting or pan Güllich. The only thing I’m searching for is trying to progress technically and physically while climbing and increasing the intensity in each path. I very often change the places where I climb.
Each year, and during a month, I go to Rocklands to train on bouldering. I also do some training sessions in Fontainebleau. I sometines train on wall climbing in various places like Boven, Saint Léger du Ventous, near Briançon (France) and of course in La Réunion.
Concerning competition, I travel with the overseas team. We travel mostly to France to find some places that are lacking in la Réunion (especially for lead training). To give you an idea, the highest walls in la Réunion are about 12m high! It’s hard to train, even if the openers do their best so I can work on the expected level.
It seems incredible how easy your climbing looks, a style that is totally '' flowless '', is it just an impression or you really don't struggle?
We always doubt when we compete, but I have to admit that in bouldering I felt easier than in lead. I found the openings of this championship particulary demanding, even on easy paths.
It can occur that I misread a path, and then I find myself in a more difficult situation. In these conditions, I can loose a bit of selfconfidence and begin to stress. But I can tell you that this is a wonderful experience, and a great lesson that I will remember from these championships. Struggling till the end, because nothing is given (and I can tell you that competition still continues).
Your ticklist boasts very high degrees for your age, both at the crags and on the blocks, what is the specialty that you like best?
I have always liked a bit more bouldering (also because in la Réunion, it is what I do the most). I did some trainings in Voiron, Innsbruck, Milan, and it made me enjoy lead. I now love to practice lead climbing. I also love speed, but not as much as I could compete in it.
Do you have any project on rock for the near future?
I go back to Rocklands in January. I don’t know if I can speak about “big projects” but I’m looking for succeeding in some boulders quite hard to me. Concerning competition, it still runs. I’m competing in the european boulder championship in september and lead in october to finish my season.
A little bit further, I have a dream and it would be to compete for France at the Olympic games in Paris in 2024. But more than a project, it’s more a dream. It’s a bit far but it’s motivating.
Do you have a climber who inspires you or represents what you would like to be in the future?
I really like a lot of climbers that I found inspirational like Janja, Ashima, Adam etc ... but I don’t feel like I want to look like someone. Evolving and climbing next to these athletes would be fantastic but I really want to remain the same.
What are your favorite shoes?
Scarpa Drago without hesitating. They adopt exactly the shape of my feet, and are flexible enough to hook on catches.